Stands for Work In Progress — the project or projects you’re currently stitching.

A technique some stitchers use to start a thread by placing a temporary knot on the front and stitching over the tail on the back.

The material you stitch with. Needlepoint threads come in wool, cotton, silk, and novelty fibers like metallics or velvets.

How tightly or loosely you pull your thread while stitching. Even, consistent tension helps stitches look neat and prevents the canvas from warping.

A family of basic stitches that look the same from the front but differ on the back. Includes half-cross, continental, and basketweave stitches.

A blunt-tipped needle with a large eye used for needlepoint. It allows thread to pass easily without splitting the canvas.

Tools used to hold a canvas taut while stitching. Helpful for preventing distortion, but optional — many stitchers work without them.

A cut length of thread taken from a skein and used for stitching.

A design method where every intersection on the canvas is assigned a specific color, eliminating guesswork when stitching.

The movement your needle makes as thread passes through the canvas. All needlepoint is built one stitch at a time.

A packaged length of thread that is wound and tied. You’ll cut a skein into smaller lengths before stitching.

A needlepoint canvas where the design is printed rather than painted by hand. Printed canvases are often more affordable but may require more interpretation while stitching.

Refers to how many smaller strands make up a thread. Some threads can be separated into fewer plies to create a thinner strand.

Refers to the thickness of the needle. A common guideline is size 20 for 13 mesh and size 22 for 18 mesh, though personal preference plays a role.

A magnetic accessory that holds your needle when you’re not stitching, helping prevent lost needles.

The most common type of needlepoint canvas. It’s white, evenly woven, and strong enough to handle a wide variety of stitches and threads.

Refers to how many holes there are in one inch of canvas. Lower mesh numbers mean larger holes. 13 mesh is easier to see and quicker to stitch, while 18 mesh allows for more detail and takes more time.

Short for Local Needlepoint Store — a brick-and-mortar shop where you can buy supplies, learn to stitch, get help, and often arrange finishing.

A small tool used to help threads lie flat and smooth on the canvas, especially with silk or specialty fibers. Optional but helpful.

A needlepoint product that includes the canvas along with the threads and needle needed to stitch it. Kits are a convenient option for beginners.

The process of turning a stitched canvas into its final form, such as an ornament, pillow, framed piece, or accessory.

Threads are dyed in batches called dye lots. Using skeins from the same dye lot helps prevent subtle color differences within a project.

A needlepoint canvas where the design is painted by hand directly onto the canvas. Each intersection is painted a specific color, so there’s no counting involved.

Uses the same diagonal stitch as continental but is worked along a diagonal path. This creates a woven back that makes the canvas stronger and helps prevent warping.

The process of reshaping a stitched canvas back to its intended shape before finishing.

A printed or digital pattern that shows where to place stitches by counting holes on the canvas. Many beginners find painted canvases easier because there’s no counting involved.

A simple diagonal stitch and often the first stitch people learn. It’s versatile, easy to control, and works well throughout a design.

How much of the canvas is covered by your stitches. Good coverage means fewer canvas holes showing through and a fuller, more polished finished look.

Any stitch used to fill larger areas of a design, usually behind the main subject.

The stiff, open-weave fabric you stitch on. In needlepoint, the design is painted or printed directly onto the canvas. Zweigart canvas is widely considered the industry standard because of its durability and consistent weave.

Slang for ripping out stitches when you make a mistake.